Family Holidays in the Transkei
As you cross the Kei River, at what was once the border post, a road sign warns: ‘Potholes – 20km’. As the odometer ticks over, and this 20km danger zone nears its end, behold – another sign warns of the impending potholes that threaten your car’s wheel alignment. And so it goes, every 20km, for the next few hundred km until like your car, rattled and overheating, you arrive at your hotel.
Similar signs warn of animals and children crossing the road. An understatement – as clearly there is an unwritten law that herders with their cattle and goats have right of way, irrespective of the size of your 4X4. Perhaps too, signs should be erected, warning drivers of the sweeping views, postcard-perfect village scenes and the smiling faces of local children, that will distract you from your driving.
The abundant rusting car-wrecks that line the roadside are evidence of such distractions. But armed with a good off-road vehicle and an attentive navigator in the passenger seat, a trip to the Transkei is well worth it. After all, for a true traveller, the adventure of the journey is as important as the destination.
Hotels
Most hotels will have information on routed hikes in the area. The 10km route from Kob Inn to the Mazeppa Bay Hotel is invigorating and inspiring. This varied walk takes you on a cattle path that leads over pastured hills, through clear rivers and along the unspoilt beach. Just as you feel as though your chest might explode from the incline of the hill, it winds down to the sea so that you can recover, catch your breath in the ocean breeze, and take in the bizarre view of Nguni cattle on the beach, before once again leading you back up; challenging your thigh muscles to the next hill.
Schools of dolphins surfing in the swell will give you an excuse to catch your breath, as do many other photo opportunities – colourful thatched huts, patterned Nguni and tribesmen in traditional gear. As you reach Mazeppa Bay, cross the swing bridge to Shark Island, popular with fishermen. If, like me, you suffer from vertigo, this swing bridge can be quite daunting, but it is worth pushing past your fears and taking on the personal challenge. Have a drink at the bar of the Mazeppa Bay Hotel, before making your way back to Kob Inn.
The hotels play a very important role in the community, as all the staff are employed from local villages. Hotel managers have strong relationships with village chiefs, who understand the importance of these hotels for the local economy. For this reason, as a visitor to the Transkei, your safety is ensured, as villagers quickly band together to eradicate ‘bad apples’.
The Perfect Family Holiday
The Wild Coast, as the Transkei is also known, makes for an ideal family holiday. If you quiver at the thought of kids in the car for an extended period of time, don’t be put off as most of the hotels offer fly-in packages, with pick-up at the East London airport. Hotels such as Kob Inn, Mazeppa Bay Hotel and The Haven to name but a few, offer full board – so Mom gets a break too. Grant it, the food may not be fancy, but it is plentiful and wholesome. These hotels cater well for kids, with a separate dining room, play areas, as well as daily children’s activities.
Why the ideal family getaway you ask? You get drawn into the way of life – simple, relaxed and back to basics. You will find yourself beach-combing, swimming, playing table tennis or having fishing competitions with your children. The rolling never-ending hills will entice you to explore them – on foot, bicycle or quad bike is best; leave your car in the parking lot until it’s time to go home.
Follow a meandering river up a kloof, or find out what is the other side of that swing bridge. Electronic-age kids are so occupied with outdoor adventures, that they actually forget about the TV in the communal lounge. You may even (gasp!) turn off your cell phone, or forget to check your email.
If you are a mall junkie, or crave night life, then no, the Wild Coast is not the place for you. I suggest going with a group of friends. Your evenings will be spent discussing the day’s explorations, swapping fishing stories with the locals, and laughing together over several glasses at the hotel’s bar before being lulled to sleep by the sound of the waves right outside your bungalow.
The Xhosa People
They know that without these tourists, they will have to leave this haven and earn a living in the city. Often the hotel will employ an entire village’s workforce. Those that aren’t permanently employed will casual by offering baby-sitting services, or by selling crafts. Xhosa ‘Mamas’ sit in groups, legs outstretched, patiently producing intricate bead-work, in order to take home a few Rand from visiting tourists.
The Xhosa people have strong family values, respecting their elderly and nurturing their children. They take pleasure from the simple things in life, and it makes sense to take a page from their book when visiting their homeland.
Enjoy time with friends be it over a leisurely meal, or while on an adrenaline adventure. Take a moment to observe your surroundings, and spend time with your children without the distractions of modern life. Don’t try to change the pace of the Transkei, rather let it change your pace of living for a while.
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